Introduction to Alethea In Heart Revival Reformation Classics

Radiant Energy Techonology

For educational purposes only. Do not copy without permission. Experiment lawfully at your own risk.
John Bedini's "Simplified School Girl" Radiant Energy Oscillator and Energizer Motor


Special thanks to John Bedini for giving us these plans
and for making them easy for simple people!

Now selling John's book, a few DVDs and an SSG parts kit:

The following is the Yahoo forum we are using to discuss and build these machines:
Some of the plans for building this device come from the following web site (not all information on that site is correct):

The theory and information behind this are found at the following John Bedini webs sites:,, Products
Thomas Bearden:


All the info below is not very detailed of the experiments I did that helped me see that there was something very interesting in these machines. I did not do everything as I should have. I know a whole lot more now about how to make a better system. See the above pages for a more thorough presentation (which is just starting). See the list for full direction in these matters.

Rick's Temporary Charger:
Picture 1 is with 9 volt batteries; picture 2 is with a deep cell 12 volt battery (as the imput) and a dead 12 volt car battery:

Click the following for larger images: Radiant1.JPG Radiant2.JPG

See the following clips for the low quality videos for each set up:


Nov. 2004

The 9 volt batteries did not work as well and the CDs eventually stopped moving. The CD magnetic wheel is not supported on the top CD and is only supported by a gutted CD drive on the bottom CD. Four magnets are positioned with the north facing out at the four corners between the CDs. Because the top is not supported it tends to wobble. But with the 12 volt batteries hooked up it has been going for over three hours (as of 5 pm Monday Nov. 8) with a continuous wobble. It does not seem to be going faster or slower. The wood board on top with two screws, along with the large CD case cover on the side have no need to be there. They were put there as support so I could put a smaller CD case cover over top of the spinning CDs in order to give support. But I did not want to add any more friction to the system so I left it off. The coil is not mounted at all. The wires are #20 and #22.
A previous attempt was made last night with a coil wound approx. 900 times. But I believe I either made the circuit wrong, fried one of the parts in soldering, or wound the coil wrong by allowing too much space between the parallel 22 and 20 wires. I wound another coil only 500 times and did the whole unit over again. It worked right away.
The plan is to find a non-metalic wheel and place 16 magnets around it and then add two more coil systems to share the wheel and magnets. This will make three times the charging capacity. I will wait for instructions as to whether I can share the imput battery with the other two proposed. I do not plan to change anything from what is called for and I am eager to work with John or others in taking the next steps. I am not going to attempt to test the current going into the charging battery (as advised) but I have checked the voltage of either battery from time to time. The power battery (deep cell) remains at the same voltage as when I started (12.14) but the other battery, which had little power left in it, has increased from somewhere around (I don't remember exactly) 12.04 volts to 12.34 volts in three hours.

Tuesday Nov. 9
I realized now that my problem with my first unit that did not work at all, was that I was using a faulty ground wire. I have not tried again to use that coil (with 900 winds).
I had to move the unit off of the dining room table. It ran constantly from around 2PM till I moved it in the morning (10 AM). Voltage stayed at around 12.13 for the imput deep cell battery and 12.27 for the old car battery. When I moved it I also hooked up another old useless battery (both did not give much power when I removed them from my VW diesel Jetta (which I converted from a gas Jetta!) about a year ago. As a former VW mechanic I know a little about car batteries. But I know very little about radiant energy and these batteries. I did once have an old German boss who shared some things with me about how to bring back to life some batteries previously thought useless (even after being discharged and frozen! It was some 10 years ago, but I believe we did it by a long process of slowly charging them and quickly discharging them. Eventually we brought some of these batteries back to life.
I have another regular usless car battery (with little useable power, and around 12 volts), along with another old deep cell that has been outside and not used for years (presumably useless). I will eventually try and rechage all of these.
When I hooked up the unit again this morning I first soldered some of the connections to get rid of excess wires. The voltage had changed when I hooked up the two charging batteries in parallel. The first battery (which was charged all night) went down to 12.17 volts and the other was 12.13v. Also the powering battery was 12.11v. The CDs are moving around the same speed as they always have. I cannot tell how fast it is going. Before I put a book on top of the unit I could hear a fast rattle about as fast as I could count. It was at least 600 rpm. I was not able to sucessfully work the small coil to my sound card to measure the rpms. The wabble is much lessened since I put the book on top of the unit. It appears that it should continue to spin for a long time. If someone wants to make that unit they could either use two old CD drives (for the top and bottom), or use one as I have and be very careful to place the magnets exactly in place (so that they are balanced). I would try 6 magnets if I did it again. I used crazy glue. It was difficult because they tended to move once I had a few down. I glued two down opposed to each other and held the CD (which was not actually a CD but a plastic cover I got with my CDs) on top. Then I glued the others (while holding the top CD on the others still) and pushed them in place. I got glue on my nice wood table so it messed me up and the whole unit is now slightly off-center. [On a side note I found the CD drive motors (found three of them) are good low-voltage powered motors for testing things like solar power and other energy.]
I am not giving too much attention to the voltages and timing of this experiment because I am more interested in the larger system above mentioned. All I desire with this experiment is to have useable batteries eventually. As of 2:20PM the voltages are: the powering batter 12.08; charging battery 1 is 12.20v; battery 2 is 12.17v. The last two have gone up around .03 volts while the other has gone down .03v. The CDs are still spinning the same. The coil is not mounted.

Thursday Nov. 11
CDs are still spinning. I have measured the voltage of the batteries throughout the last few days, but only randomly. I have not rotated the batteries because the two that are charging were needing a good charge and are still slowly increasing in voltage. The deep cell powering battery is correspondingly decreasing in voltage. This was at the rate of .01 volts per increase of 0.01 volts in the other batteries (each battery). I will eventually post my chart. The batteries are at the following voltages: power battery (deep cell) 11.96v; charging batter 1: 12.31; battery 2: 12.28. I am not sure when I should rotate the batteries. I have another useless deep cell battery that was discharged and left outside which I am charging with regular trickle charger. I may add it to this system shortly when I start charging my good deep cell battery (and use the charging batteries to power the unit. I should also say that my good deep cell battery was actually a reduced price battery from KMart because it was old. It also has been hardly used in the year I have had it. So I do not have any good or new batteries in this system. This will therefore be a test to see if some or all of these junk or old batteries can be restored and made useful in any way.
I tried two more attempts at making motors: 1. I took apart my stationary bike and mounted the plastic flywheel horizontally on a wood frame. The wheel was made to blow wind while you ride so I wondered if it would cause too much resistance. I glued the radio shack magnets to the 15 sides (even though there was little contact surface they glued very strong). But I did not position them on the outside. Instead I tried positioning them on the sides. I hooked up the first coil and circuit to it but something is wrong with it again. The wheel did not sping free enough and there was too much wobble. Eventually some of the magnets hit the coil and came off. I thought about removing some of the fins in the wheel but chose rather to keep the wheel as it was and make another battery charger out of the bike and wheel (as I have done with our other stationary bike, where I have hooked up a 90 amp car alternator to it). 2. I tried to make another CD motor with six magnets. I did a good job with lining it up perfectly but was impatient with waiting for the glue to dry on two magnets (as all the others dried fast). I see that if crazy glue does not dry properly on a spot then it will probably not dry properly if it is tried again. When I had glued down the top CD a few of the magnets were either too far in or out. So when I held it down two of them moved too much back and forth and did not dry properly. So I added more glue and did not wait long enough. I stoped my other CD motor and replaced my CDs and spun it. I was able to move the coil closer (as I had it about 3/4 inch away from the magnets). It went faster (I think only because it was closer). But there was considerable wobble due to one of the magnets not staying glued. And before long it ripped out and broke the top CD. I did not try to make another one. I think that it would work. It would then give more pulses to the charge at around the same speed as the other one. I should say one word about gluing the CDs. You cannot have success doing this if you glue on the top of a CD (where the lable goes). That actually is where the information is in the CD, and it comes off fairly easily if glued to magnets. If you peel that off you will find that what is left of the CD is purely plastic. [So if you scratch your good program CDs they can be buffered many times because that side is only plastic.] When I put the first CDs back and spun them as before, they went faster because they were closer to the coil. I then mounted the coil with some clear tape because it was so close (1/8") to the spinning magnets and tended to turn itself a little. I do no want it to hit the coil.
I think my experiment is the easiest to make because it is the smallest (in size and uses only 4 magnets), and a CD rom drive is easy to find. Everyone knows that drives in computures or stereos do not last long and are very often thrown away. I am sure repair shops would give them away. They are fairly easy to take apart. All that is needed is the rotating platform and the plastic frame it is mounted to. As I said above, mine was a little motor (but that does not seem to affect the spinning.
On my stationary bike was a multiscan device that mesured speed, pulse, etc. I took it off and placed the coil pickup near my magnets. A slight ringing sound occured as I neared the spinning magnets. It read 1440 (which divided by 4 magnets is 380 rpm). That is not actually the rpms but is the maximum reading of the bike meter. As I moved it around I saw for a split second a much higher fluxuation in the high 5000s. I need to use that coil to somehow hook into my microphone input on my computer.
I will be going out today to get more parts at Radio Shake and hopefully find a plastic or aluminum wheel somewhere. I will keep the above system running even if I make another one. I want to try and make three or four coils and circuits for one wheel, while placing the horizontal wheel (with magnets mounted on the side of the wheel) above the verticle coils. I imagine there might be less drag on the wheel in this position as nothing would be in the path of the wind. Also, coils would push the wheel up and take weight off of the bottom bearing. With my previous attempt with one coil it did not work because the bearing was loose and having only one coil made the wheel rise at the point of the coil thus causing a wobble. But if three or four coils were positioned exactly then this should not be a problem. What I still need to figure out is if I can hook up one powering battery for all the different coild systems (while charging several batteries per unit). I do not think that would be a problem as it appears that powering circuit is separate from the charging curuit. If anyone know better let me know.

Two new units.
I managed to rework the broken CD motor that had six magnets in it. I broke off the rest of the top CD and glued another one on top. This time I gave it a few hours to dry. As you can see in the new video (below) there is less wobble. It may be going faster (I still have not hooked up anything to measure rpms). It is charging the two batteries faster.

Click the following for larger images: 6.JPG 8.JPG

See the following clips for the low quality videos for each set up:


The second unit is made of an aluminum rim with steel spokes. I did not want to pay $30 for a new rim so I paid $2 for a smaller used one. I removed all but six spokes as there is no need for that many as the wheel is not being used to support weight. I was going to put 16 magnets on but only put 8 so far. I was not sure how they would glue so I glued them along the length of the rim. I will not be able to add more magnets with this smaller rim. I am not sure if that matters if I have eventually four coils under it. Since the other experiments were all with the magnets on the outside of the rim I thought I would place them on the side for several reasons. I guess that this would tend to lift the wheel (when two or more coils are under it). Secondly, while the wheel is spinning in the other positioning the air slow down the wheel by flowing against the coil. With this setup the air current is not hindered from the coil. I first thought of this with the other stationary bike wheel that was made to blow air while you ride. I noticed some of John Bedini's units are set up this way and I think I remember him writing that this would be an acceptable setup. When I hooked it up it ran right away with no problems. There is a little wobble with this setup but when I add other coils it should smooth out. I started it on an old useless car battery that was only giving out about 7 or 8 volts. The charging battery was the old deep cell which I tried to charge on my garage charger (the old kind) all day today. It charged at 14 volts but when I removed the charger it fell back to 10.5volts. You know what that means: a bad cell. After hooking it up to the the newest bedini charger and running it for a few minutes, I realized that I should probably run the unit off of it and charge the other battery. So when I changed the setup the wheel ran much faster. After some more minutes of observing stable speed and wobble, I remembered to add some of my Prolong additive. After I added the multipurpose Prolong oil to the top bearing then I noticed a significant increase in speed. And the bearing was already lubbed. If I had filmed it it sure would have made for good advertizing!
I have made three more circuits but still have to wind the coils. I should have it done by tomorrow if I have enough wire.

Nov. 12

Click the following for a larger image: 9.JPG

I reworked the wheel so that 16 magnets could fit. I finished and added a second coil. I discovered a metalic spot on one section of the rim and hope this does not affect the charging too much. When I hooked up both units to the same two batteries I noticed an increase in voltage to the charging battery by two volts (compared to when only one coil and circuit was hooked up. But the powering battery did not seem to change in lowering voltage.
I did my first amps measurement. Both units hooked up to the first battery showed .37 amps at around 10 volts. While the charging battery received .09 amps at just under 12 volts. Previous to this I charged my power deep cycle battery with a trickle charger because it was run down. I should also mention that this test and unit is at freezing tempteratures 32 degrees. The battery is obviously charging faster than the first one is discharging.

Nov. 17
I installed a double knife switch so I do not have to move any wires around in rotating both batteries. These were from Radio Shack. I added something to join the two switch levers together so they cannot be switched in opposite directions and short the circuit. You can see my diagram of the wiring on the paper (although I did not show the one wire going from the positive to the negative terminal). Some of my wires are too long and too thick here.
I was able to use my 21" fan wheel for a new setup. It is only spinning at less than 60 rpms. There is 15 or 16 magnets on it. It may be a few more days until I can get a better wheel. This one has a lot of resistance because it is supposed to fan you while your ride the stationary bike, and the bearings do not have any balls in them. It only rotates freely without the coil for half a minute or so.

Dec. 4 04

Click the following for a larger image: 16a.JPG
See the following clips for the low quality videos for each set up:


I will quote a little from the letter to the email list: I started out with the spinning CDs (which I soon upgraded to 6 instead of 4). They were still spinning and charging two of my useless batteries (that I also had tried to charge with regular chargers and which would not go above 12 volts, etc.) till I used the circuit and coil for my new 17 inch wheel. The batteries took a long time to rise in voltage. But in the last few days they have increased faster. They were about 13.5 volts while I had not rotated them but kept them on steady charge. They have not been charged with any other charger since I started. The powering battery is the deep cell which has been charged with a regular charger a few times. I think I am seeing something happening here. I had read somewhere on the web site that the magnets needed to be separated by at least 1.5 magnets for it to work. The CD magnets have that much space. And the next setup I did had a little more space. But then Peter said I need to keep the magnets at least three spaces apart from each other. I tried that on my large wheel but that had too much resistance to continue to spin. But two days ago I put together my newly found old 17 inch plastic wheel (yellow see above). I put the magnets three spaces apart and set up a wooden frame. The wheel would not keep spinning with the setup as in the others. My friend suggested I spin it the other way. I did not think it would make a difference but it did. And it has been spinning constantly since (until I moved it). It did get faster and faster in the two days running even though that was not corresponding to the voltage levels in either batteries (when they were higher or lower the speed kept increasing). I have continued to rotate charging my two new batteries. I am acutally showing a very slow overall drop in voltage charge (with this and the other wheel). This new wheel has bad bearings though (which are getting better!). We cleaned them out and put new grease in them but they are worn. I will see what I can do about improving any of my three bike wheels today (I have now made the two plastic wheels better). The other thing that slightly works against these batteries is that they are in 20 degree F temperatures (the CD motors were inside though; but now outside). This email was slowly written throughout the day as can be seen. I decided to stop my successful spinning CDs to use my best coil and circuit for the new plastic wheel with 15 magnets on it. I figured that that 17 inch wheel is more along the lines of the SG project than the CDs. I set up the wheel inside where the CDs were spinning (picture above) and it runs faster than I can count (see video). What was interesting was that I had started charging the deep cell powering battery and had it disconnected to the circuit. While charging I had the wheel with a magnet directly over the coil about 1/8'. When I connected the circuit I noticed the wheel started to spin by itself. Then, because I had hit one of the magnets and was attempting to glue it back on, I stopped the wheel by disconnecting the battery. When I connected it again I noticed a faint very low rumbling sound with no movement at the wheel (while the magnet was directly over the coil). I was going to record this sound but first unplugged my charger (which is the new processor controlled kind). There was no sound after that. The sould was coming from the coil and not the circuit or charger. When I tried to do it again by plugging it in, I could not make the sound. I gather that the sound occurred only when the charger was charging. For my charger often keeps charging and showing a less than 100% charge on batteries, even though when I unplug it and replug it in it will then show 100% as is the case. So it appears that if I have it on charge with no wheel movement, while the batter is not 100% charged, it might make that noise again. I have not checked it again since 2 hours ago.
I have checked it again (see above video) and it produced the same sound with the same charger. The non-digital charger did not make the same noise happen in the coil while it was charger.

Click the following for a larger image: 13a.JPG

See the following clips for the low quality videos for each set up:


I decided to follow the advice of others with my CD circuit 9v battery charging setup. I used my 4 magnet CD rotor on my newly built CD drive base. I hooked up two non-chargeable 9v batteries to the charging end (in parallel), with one rechargeable 9v battery on the powering end in parallel with a 9v adapter that gave out 9.2v unconnected to anything else. The dead charging batteries increased their voltage from 7.5 to 9 within 45 minutes. I had to figure out where to put the coil as the CDs would spin too fast if within 1/2' of the coil. It is somewhere near 3/4'. I found 3/4 inch too far away and the CD would eventually stopped. I also found that at the present place the CD would speed up and slow down noticeably (without any adjustments made). There was no other current draw in my home during those moments. (Later, see video, I found the volts of the charging batteries around 10.1 with the other battery at 8.5v)

It looks like I will be able to charge up the 9v batteries much faster than the car 12v and deep cells. I have many 9v batteries for smoke detectors that all just died recently. They all went off within a few days beeping at me from every direction. They are all the same batteries discharged to the same point. Lets see if we can charge them all up! But the first batteries being charged are different from each other, one being dead, another being new. I will see how they charge over the next few days before I try and charge four or more of the same batteries mentioned.

Click the following for a larger image: 15a.JPG

See the following clips for the low quality videos for each set up:


I also got my 22' plastic fan stationary bike wheel going again in an upright position instead of horizontal. It was spinning at about 60 RPM when I started it. I am using the 2 new deep cell batteries for it (with the double knife switch for easy rotation every 12 hours or so).

Feb. 15, 2005.
I reworked the CD rotor setup by supporting it on both sides so I could make it spin much faster.
I wrapped lots of tape around it. I used the six magnet rotor. I used a new knife switch and finally used all three deep cell batteries on the same machine. I branched off the three batteries' negative connections to three diodes according to John's last update for the circuit. I had the powering battery drawing .30 amps and then I blew the transistor. When I replaced it I also changed the resistor from 680 ohms to 880. Now it is drawing about .22 ohms and making a lot of noise (because it is not the best setup. I don't recommend doing this as it is hard to align the supports for the CD rotor, and to get the rotor perfectly ballanced. Now that I have all three deep cell batteries on one machine hopefully I can rotate them perpetually. I still need to get two more batteries to do a proper rotation.

March 19, 2005.
New original School Girl Energizer.

Ok folks I finally got around to making something like the original SG energizer. My machines were not working as well as they should have because I was using 5/32 inch welding rod. Then when John posted his new six coil energizer he showed us that his cores were made of 1/16 inch welding rods. That would probably explain why it was hard for me to run my CD rotor machine with a 9 volt battery when I first started.
Later I will show step by step pictures as I built this machine.
Here is the details so far:
I used the following parts:
2 1/2 sheets of 18" x 24" x 1/16" (just a little bigger) medium strength extruded acrylic safty glazing sheet shatter-resistant plastic. This was all I needed to hold it all together. I did not need thicker plastic because I was only holding one coil and a small generator. Not planning to add anything else to this machine--its just a proof of concept machine. I doubled up the plastic as the picture shows. And there is 6 pieces of plastic under the coil and on top of the large 18" x 10" plastic foundation. I used 1/16 mild steel welding rods. "General purpose. Can be used on AC or DC welding current."
I converted one of my first coils which had #20 and #22 magnet wire over 500 turns on a small coil. I replaced the old larger welding rods with the 1/16" ones. [This did not work with the 9v battery very long so I made another smaller coil. But this bigger coil I used to power an LED.]]
I used a small 1 1/4 wide spool by 1 3/4" tall. I used #22 and #26 magnet wire, but got less than 300 turns on the small coil. Filled it with about 5 or six welding rods.
I used a 9" plasitic bike wheel with its bearings and center bold. I added two larger washers.
It has 9 radio shack magnets on it about 3 inches apart from each other from their center.
I glued them and the plastic with crazy glue. Then I put electrical tape around the wheel/magnets to support the magnets (about three times).
I used the same circuit as the original SG diagram. Used diode IN914. And optional 2N3055 transistor (I did not have the MPS8099).
I used one 10 ohm resistor and added one 680 ohm resistor in series. I also played around with a 1k pot.
I used one aluminum lite switch cover as a heat sink, with some silicon cream between the transistor and the aluminum.
There is no neon bulb as in the modified SG circuit. Nor is there any secondary battery wires or diodes.

I do have continual rotation but not the right settings. My wheel is probably too big, and my coil does not have enough wire.
More details to come in a few days when it is all glued together an running right.

Never mind the above setup. I did another one:





Click here for some Older Tests.


Copyright (c) 2004-7 Truth In Heart.